Pinterest Project - Thrifted Sweater Redux

I have a ton of Pinterest pins for Fashion Inspiration, so I try to actually use them for inspiration as much as possible!  Here is a project based on Pinterest and using a thrifted sweater.
 

Inspiration photo from Pinterest

I’ve had this photograph pinned on Pinterest for a while now so last weekend I decided to tackle it!  Pinterest isn’t letting me click through to the original source for this photo.

I found a rather simple navy blue sweater at my local Salvation Army.  It’s nothing special, no special materials or anything, but it is very soft, fits well and has a fine knit.  It is also in great shape: no tears, pulls, or stains, it has retained its shape and isn’t too pilly.

Original sweater

I purchased 1 yard of pink ribbon at my go-to fabric store. The sweater was $4.50 and the ribbon was $1.65.  I already had matching thread, so I got a new and very unique sweater for less than $7!

How to:

1. Cut through the neckline and on either side of the shoulder seam to as far down the arm as you want.  Remove the bulky shoulder seam.

Cut a slit at the shoulder

2. Carefully, and without stretching the knit, stay stitch about 1/8 inch from the edge to stabilize it and keep the edge from unraveling while you work. 

Stay stitch the raw edge

3. Cut the ribbon in half so you have two ties.
4. Gently and without stretching the fabric, fold the seam over, laying the ribbon in as you go.  As I got closer to the end of the slit, my seam became less of a fold and more of a roll.  Just be sure to get the raw edge tucked inside the seam.  Also, if your new shoulder slit crosses any seams, be sure to keep them aligned as you fold over the raw edge.

Pinned seam with the ribbon pinned into the seam

5. I decided to hand baste the seam as the raw edge kept wanting to peek out between the pins and the pins were getting bulky.  Basting the edge kept the seam super secure for the machine sewing.
I chose a small stitch, a size 2 on my machine.  I had to advance it by hand to work it over the neck seam. 

Here you can see the hand basting

6. Remove your hand basting and gently press the seam with a warm iron.

7. Finish the seam on the ends of the ribbon.  Fold ¼ inch of the raw edge of the ribbon, press with the iron, then fold and press ¼ inch again.  Unfold and trim the edge to 1/8 inch of the first fold and clip the corners.  Fold the seam again, pin, sew, and press.

Clip the corners of the seam

8. The ribbon needs to be stitched down to the underside of the seam.  Here it is coming out of the finished sweater seam on the wrong side of the sweater, but it needs to lay flat along the seam.  

The ribbon, sewn into the finished seam

 

Pin the ribbon so it lays flat against the seam (wrong side)

9. Use thread to match your sweater in the needle, and thread to match the ribbon in your bobbin.  Pin the ribbon flat along the seam, and stitch right on top of your first seam.  With the threads matching your sweater and ribbon, this seam will blend. 

Sew the ribbon flat to the seam

10. Press gently with a warm iron and voila!

Finished sweater

Love the bare shoulder peeking out!

I also removed the sweater’s original and kinda ugly tag from the back of the neckline.  The machine care instructions are in the side seam and those I kept.

I think this would also be pretty with a longer slit down the arm, and lace inset into the slit up to the shoulder bow.  This would be a great solution to a sweater that fits in the body, but the arms are too slim.  Hmmmm…going to have to find another thrift store sweater now!!

Loving it with my new pale pink pumps!!

Chambray Shirt

I am loving the chambray shirts popping up everywhere.  Cute outfit ideas with chambray are all over Pinterest.  But it was so hard to find them in the stores, with the fit I wanted.  The ones I could find were too baggy and too short.

To my trusty stash of patterns!  I chose Simplicity pattern #2255 for the tunic length button up shirt.  It has front, back, and bust darts for a clean, slim fit, and long enough that I could wear it with leggings (and still cover the tush)!

I chose a lovely soft chambray and shirting buttons from Stone Mountain & Daughter Fabrics.  I left off the side tabs, figuring they would only add bulk to the hip area (umm, no thank you).  I haven’t yet decided whether to add the two front pockets or not.

I’m ready for spring!

Collared Shirt Refit

I’ve had this flowered button-up shirt for a while but just don’t really wear it much.  The collar never seems to lay right or stay crisp and it was a looser fit, with darts in the back but not in the front.  I thought it would look much better without the collar and with front darts to provide some shape.

Baggy shirt and floppy collar.

I started by carefully unpicking the seams attaching the collar to the shirt and removed the collar.  Then, I carefully restitched the seam, using a small stitch right over the original stitch line.  Now it has a cleaner, tab collar.

I also created two darts in the front for a slimmer fit, but not too tight!   

Dart drawn in chalk

 

Both the collar and the darts make a subtle difference but I think I will be wearing it a lot more!

Much better fit! (lousy photo)

Men's Vest

~Men’s Wool Vest~

Listening to Florence + the Machine Ceremonials

 

I just adore a man in a slim fit tweed or wool vest.  Especially with a bit of a beard – YUM.  So, of course, I had to get my boyfriend, David, in one!  I used this project to get more experience lining clothes, making buttonholes, and adjusting patterns using a muslin. 

 

I started with Simplicity Pattern #2741.  This is for a more classic, slightly boxy vest.  David has broad shoulders and chest but a slender waist so I knew it wasn’t really the fit we wanted. 

I used the pattern to make a muslin which I fitted to David, lengthening the front darts and taking in the sides so it tapered into the waist. We also didn't add in the welts as David thought they were too traditional and he likes a cleaner look.

 

The fabric is an Italian wool in a soft charcoal gray.  I used black cotton sateen for the lining.

  

David picked out great metal buttons.  They look like hammered, aged steel.  I am really pleased with the fit and am now a devotee of making a muslin first!  

I watched and read a bunch of how-tos online and in books on making buttonholes.  One tip I didn't see was using a pin as sort of a door stop for the ripper when cutting open the buttonhole after binding.  This way, if the ripper gets away from you, it won't slice through the buttonhole stitching.

Align the pin right at the edge of the buttonhole stitching, so as not to cut into the stitching

The ripper will come up against the pin, protecting the buttonhole stitching

 Here's David modeling the finished vest. 

Isn't he cute!

 

DIY: Sewing a Winter Wrap

~Winter Wrap~

I love wearing large wraps and shawls in cool weather.  They look elegant but are so comfortable.  And they can elevate a plain black outfit or jeans into a stunner!  I came up with this design using a knitted shawl I’ve had for years for sizing, but with some modifications to give it a modern twist.  I ended up making two as Christmas gifts and one for myself.  The how-to pictures show steps from all these projects.  The best part is that the only sewing skills you need is sewing in a straight line and attention to detail. I think this would also look good in a light sheer fabric for spring and summer, perhaps with a satin bias tape trim. 

Listening to: Bonnie Raitt Streetlights 

You'll Need:

1 ¾ yards fabric (Choose a fabric that doesn’t have obvious right or wrong sides as both will be visible.  I used a yellow, charcoal gray, and black plaid that is thick but has a gorgeous drape for my wrap.)

8 yards of trim (I used a faux black leather tape, or you could make your own fabric bias tape.)

Thread to match (If your fabric and trim are different colors, you will want thread to match each.)

Directions:

1. Fold fabric lengthwise, bringing selvage edges together.  Lay the pattern onto the folded edge and cut out.  This is sized to my frame: I am 5’8” and curvy.  If you are a significantly different size, especially petite, you may want to rework the pattern and adjust your yardage of fabric and trim.

Pattern and fabric laid out

2. Serge the edges, or if you don’t have a serger, straight stitch ¼ inch in from the edge.  I’ve done it both ways and both are fine, but you may have more fraying with the straight stitch.

Stitch 1/4 inch from the edge or serge the edge

 3. Check your trim.  If it is store bought tape, one folded side should be slightly narrower than the other.  Unfold this side and pin it to the fabric, beginning at the center back.  Fabric and trim should be right sides together.  Pin with the raw edges even.  I do this in about 3 sections to be more manageable.

Pin trim to edge

4. Sew on the fold line in the tape, beginning 3 inches from the beginning of the trim (leaving a “tail” of the trim).  Leave 3 inches unsewn at the end too.

Stitch right on the fold line

5. Sew the ends of the trim together.  Press the seam flat (I couldn’t iron my faux leather tape so I pressed it with my fingers).  Clip the corners and sew to the wrap.

Joining the trim

 6. Clip all the outside curves and notch the inner ones.

Clip the curves edges

7. Fold tape over to the reverse (wrong) side so it encases the rough edge.  Press and pin.  I had to trim a bit inside the seam because my fabric and trim were thicker.  Be sure that the trim on the back side extends 1-2 mm further than the trim seam on the front.

Folded over trim from the front

Folded over trim from the back

8. Use thread that matches the trim in the bobbin and thread that matches the fabric in the needle.  Stitch in the ditch on the front side, being sure to catch the edge of the back side of the trim.  Check throughout this step (every 15 inches or so) that the reverse side of the trim is being caught in the stitches.

Stitch in the ditch on the front side

Reverse side: the stitches should just catch the reverse side of the trim.

9. By stitching in the ditch, the stitches will be invisible on the front side of your wrap which gives a nice professional, clean finish.  

Bon Chance!

Voila!

Close up of the leather trim